Single pattern and whole pattern(SOUZASHI).
There are 2 way of kogin embroidery.;Single pattern and whole embroidery(SOUZASHI).
Single pattern is small separate pattern and embroidering on large cloth is called whole embroidery.
The base of whole embroidery is single patterns.By surrounding single pattern or connecting patterns we can expand the pattern.
In the old time,the women of farm villages were devised the patterns to embroidery on Kimonos.
The girls learned from small single patterns,gradually combining patterns, becoming able to embroidery large cloth like a kimono.
Repeat and Connect
If you learned one single pattern,you can embroidery large cloth.
There is two way to embroidery a pattern on the whole of the cloth.;Repeat same pattern or connect the pattern.
Single pattern
FUKUBE(a gourd).
Like this picture,to embroidery only one pattern is called single pattern.It is good for small items such as broach,pin-cushion.
Repeat
Repeat is to embroider the same pattern on the whole of the cloth.
Connect
Connect is part of the pattern is connected each other.
Kakomi and Nagare,
Kakomi is to surround single pattern.Nagare is to connect patterns each other.
single pattern
This pattern named Hanako.It means small flower.
Single pattern is small separate pattern.
KAKOMI(surrounding)
KAKOMI:surrounding single pattern.
Cobblestone surrounded by small flowers.
The center patten is cobblestone and this is surrounded by small flowers(Hanako).
This pattern is not connected to other pattern,such pattern is called "kakomi(surrounding)".
Kakomi pattern is as if a frame.
NAgare(connecting)
Nagare:surrounding and connecting each other.
Scales of backside inside connected flowers.The center pattern is scales of backside and this is surrounded by small flowers(Hanako).
These patterns are connected each other,so such pattern is called "Nagare".
Edge patterns
Some kogin patterns show the edge of embroidery. These patterns are called edge pattern.
Edge patterns looks like line.Not only showing the edge, They embroidered to separate the pattern.
I will introduce some main patterns.
Stitching
Stitching straight at the same interval. It might be origin kogin embroidery.
Changing the number of lines make the impression different.
Take-no-fushi
Take-no-fushi means Bamboo section.It is said that this pattern is shaped the bamboo section. This pattern has some variation. Bamboo is one of the auspicious pattern.
ichimatsu
The name of “Ichimatsu” came from kimono pattern of Sanoya Ichimatsu, a Kabuki actor in Edo period.
This pattern is similar to check pattern.